Driving on a straight stretch of National Highway-60 from Medinipur to Balasore, you would be forgiven for missing the small sign unbefitting one of the most significant archaeological sites discovered in Bengal. After all, the sleepy hamlet Moghalmari is similar to others in the southern part of Paschim Medinipur district, close to the border with Odisha. But after traversing a few hundred metres off the highway, you come across an impressive hillock, which locals refer to as the “mound of Sakhisena” and the “mound of Sashisena”. My own native village is in the vicinity so I’m familiar with the area, but even a day-trip will acquaint the casual observer with the geography of the region and with the fact that this is an anomaly since most of the region is very flat.
In 1996, a local schoolteacher, Narendranath Biswas, informed Asok
Datta, a professor of archaeology at the University of Calcutta about
various ancient-looking artifacts villagers were finding near this
mound. A very large number of medieval coins with Buddhist inscriptions,
shards of pottery, and ornate bricks were being discovered. In 2003,
the mound and two other adjacent sites were selected for excavation by
Dr. Datta. This small village, Moghalmari was hypothesized to be a part
of a flourishing ancient centre known as Dandabhukti. Further, just as
today the village is situated just off of a national highway, in
antiquity, it was thought to be on a trade route connecting Tamralipta,
one of the most important ports in Buddhist times, to other sites of
significance to Buddhism. Further examination of the site led Dr. Datta
and his team to believe that the Subarnarekha River, which now flows
approximately 4 kilometers southwest of Moghalmari was close to the
mound, further strengthening the argument that the village was once a
centre of Buddhist learning.

Excavation began in earnest, but proceeded slowly through five stages
over nearly a decade, more often hampered by lack of sustained funding
and bureaucratic bottlenecks, than by any shift in significance.
Excavations leading up to 2012 revealed that the mound was the site of
an extensive Buddhist monastery complex built over centuries and perhaps
as early as the sixth century, the likes of which have yet to be
discovered elsewhere in Bengal. Extensive human figures including that
of the Buddha and Bodhisattvas, bowls, terracotta lamps, tablets for
worship, and seals were found within the central region surrounded by
massive brick walled structures ornately decorated with stucco panels
and floral motifs. A brick stupa was discovered in 2012 along with
proto-Bengali scripts. Shortly before Dr. Datta’s death in 2012, he
wrote in a local magazine, Ebong Shayak that “Moghalmari possibly
exhibits the largest monastic site so far discovered in Bengal.”

Not much has been gleaned about the Buddhist monastery complex at
Moghamlari from the standard texts of the time that historians rely on
for information. The Chinese pilgrim Xuanzang (Hiuen Tsang) may have
alluded to it in 638, when he visited Tamralipta, but he did not mention
any specific name. Tamralipta is extensively mentioned by Xuanzang and
Faxian (Fa Hien) before him, but to date, no archaeological site
corresponding to this major Buddhist centre has been discovered. As
such, Moghalmari may be the best preserved site in the vicinity and
could hold the key to unraveling the secrets of Buddhist society in
Bengal at that time.

I visited the mound at Moghalmari in October, 2012. Up until that time,
only small areas of the mound that had been excavated by Dr. Datta’s
team. The area had not been cordoned off by the Archaeological Survey of
India. In fact, the only sign mentioning the historic significance of
the Buddhist complex at the location had been erected by a club of local
citizens, who had also taken up the important task of safeguarding the
excavated sites. Some relics have been shipped to Kolkata, while others
had been kept in a small clubhouse converted into an archive. We were
the only visitors that day.

This was in marked contrast to the situation earlier this month. The
Directorate of Archaeology & Museums of West Bengal is currently
undertaking a complete archaeological excavation and restoration of the
Buddhist monastic complex at the mound. I visited the site last week and
was greeted enthusiastically by experienced, local diggers who had
previously worked with Dr. Datta, and state archaeologists, who guided
me around the site and eagerly answered all my questions regarding the
layout of the complex. Work is progressing rapidly and many artifacts
are being uncovered every week. I also saw a flat site adjacent to the
mound, which in the near future will house a small museum of
antiquities.

I am very excited that we will finally learn more about this important
site, and this hitherto unknown facet of our history, but I also
understand there are underlying responsibilities. For many years, the
Buddhist monastic complex at Moghalmari was been safely buried under
layers of soil because no one knew about it. With excavation will come
the challenge of protecting the structures from tourists, vandals, and
thieves. The structures will also be exposed to the vagaries of local
weather such as high humidity and water erosion. Elsewhere on the
subcontinent, in Mohenjo-Daro, concerned authorities are contemplating
reburying exposed structures under soil to protect them from further
damage as exposed walls are crumbling from the foundation. Preservation
is an ongoing activity, and the people I spoke to at Moghalmari this
month told me that they had thought seriously about this important duty.

I remain cautiously
optimistic that we will be able to rise to this challenge. Moghalmari
contains extensive evidence of our early cultural heritage which
deserves closer inspection: the responsibility of protecting it lies not
only with the authorities who plan to safeguard it, but also with us.
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